散浪
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于 2012-04-15 16:15 个人信息 发悄悄话 引用回复 编辑本帖 搜索发帖 复制本帖 收藏本帖 投诉该帖
2006年的酒我查过,除了一只隐士园的白葡萄酒帕克给过100的满分,没有满分的酒了,这只白葡萄酒每年只产2000支,属于可遇不可求的酒。 除了这只100分的白葡萄酒,目前为止我找到3支帕克评分98分的酒,一支是木桐2006,一支是奥颂2006,另一只就是下面的这只Clos des Papes 2006. 前面介绍教皇新堡的时候介绍过Clos des Papes 2007,是只帕克满分100的酒, Clos des Papes在中国知名度很低,但Clos des Papes的名声享誉世界,在葡萄酒爱好者心目中,Clos des Papes的地位并不比波尔多五大名庄低。 2006年的Clos des Papes ,在2007新酒阶段帕克喝过后,给出过95分,在喝过5大庄之后,帕克再次喝的时候给了98分。而同年的五大庄拉菲97,拉图95,玛歌94,奥比昂96,只有木桐一样得到98分。加上五大的9大庄中,奥颂也得到98分。 --- Paul Avril - Clos des Papes - CdP 2006 98/100 PP The 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape is one of the two or three candidates for the wine of the vintage. An extraordinarily great wine, the 2006 is far superior to the 2005, which was amazing, and while made in a different style, is as great as the 2003, and such legends as 1990 and 1978. Fashioned from a minuscule 21 hectoliters per hectare, and tipping the scales at 15.2% natural alcohol, the 2006 boasts a dense ruby/purple color to the rim, in addition to an extraordinary bouquet of melted licorice, spring flowers, raspberries, black currants, spice box, and earth. In the mouth, it is utterly profound – full-bodied and multidimensional with astonishing purity, length, equilibrium, and intensity. This is a superb vintage for the Avrils, and Vincent deserves huge accolades for producing a wine of such incredible intensity and complexity. Think of Clos des Papes as a Chateauneuf du Pape with the complexity of a top-notch grand cru Burgundy from the Cote de Nuits. I have participated in so many exceptional tastings with Paul Avril that it is difficult for me to accept that his brilliant son, Vincent, may be eclipsing the work of his father. Vincent, trained in Burgundy, appears to be pushing things to an even higher level of quality. Nothing has changed in these cellars; everything is still as traditional as you will find. All the wines are kept in foudre, and the red Chateauneuf du Pape blend is one of only a handful in the appellation that contains increasing amounts of Muscardin, Vaccarese, and Counoise along with 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, and some Syrah. The white Chateauneuf du Pape is one of the longest lived of the appellation, and that’s saying something. The Avrils have proven me wrong many times by opening old bottles that I would have believed to be dead, but are still full of life and vivacity." (Robert M. Parker, Jr.) ---- 当然Clos des Papes 的酒几乎支支精彩,从1978的哪一支拿到帕克99分以来,是拿到最多帕克100的酒庄之一,在帕克的酒庄排名中Clos des Papes 属于5星级别的。 老庄主Paul Avril去世之后,2007的Clos des Papes几乎成为一个时代的符号,后续的继承人能否再现Clos des Papes的辉煌就需要时间来证明了,不过从目前来看,视乎需要后续者的持续领悟了,因为2009这么好的年份Clos des Papes才拿到95分,而许多其他教皇新堡的酒拿到了98或99的高分,而五大庄以及9大庄几乎都是98-100的分值,当然95分也是许多酒庄可望不可及的分数。 因此这两款2006,2007起码会在未来一段时间内成为绝响。就如同宝马庄在1961年的哪一支拿到过初次99分,后调整为100分之后,再也没有一年拿过满分,这只98的2006,假以时日会是另一只满分100的酒。 --- 自1990年起,教皇新堡产区开始出现超级酒款(Cuvee superieure),常是采取老藤晚收,通过新的标准橡木桶陈化成熟的超浓郁酒。二十一世纪初以来,这种趋势在当地愈加风行,然而Paul Avril却置若罔闻,他认为Clos des Papes没有两种不同阶级的客户,一个酒庄只应酿产一款教皇新堡风格的酒,他认为若将品质最好的葡萄酒独立装瓶,那便要牺牲许多所谓经典款、 传统款、一般款教皇新堡的酒。因而,Clos des Papes只产一款红酒以及一款白酒。Paul Avril强调,若这些所谓的超级酒款;是以一特定的葡萄园之果实酿制而成,那他可理解酒庄想展示不同地块之风土特色的企图,然而,他认为,大部分 超级酒款均来自表现最好的几桶酒,与风土无关。 因此比其许多获得高分乃至于满分100的教皇新堡的超级酒款,Clos des Papes的100分更是含金量十足,因为真的是支支精彩,对于只产一款红酒的酒庄来说,就意味着每一瓶都是同样质量的。
散浪 编辑于 2012-04-15 16:40
散,无形也,浪,无踪也,散浪,无形无踪也..... 君子无所争.必也射乎!揖让而升,下而饮.其争也君子 我是个过客,注定不会停留,请忽略我的存在, 即使曾经存在过,那请你把我当作一个影子来看待吧. ------------------------------------------------ ---
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